Day 5

Kington to Knighton
Route: https://www.endomondo.com/routes/718193565

It was the last day of "pt1" of Offa's Dyke. It's a really good hike and very popular. My advice would be to try it out when the weather is more likely to be sunny but make sure you book accommodation in advance if you do that. We were very lucky as The Offa's Dyke guest house landlady walked past us in Knighton and, thinking we were the guests she was expecting, struck up a conversation with us. After we'd all worked out who we were (!) I asked if she had a spare room and fortunately she had.

The days hike, in fact the last 5 days hike, had taken it out of me but I'm also sure I was getting stronger. I feel this whole trail is achievable in one go if you are used to distance hiking. It has really good sections of around 15 - 20 miles over hilly terrain. Accommodation can be found at the end of each section so with some half decent planning you will have a great time.

For me, I am now heading back to SE England with my tired legs but I'll be back to finish Offa's Dyke another year.

One last thing - I have a feeling The Dutch hikers may have stayed in Hay-on-Wye  (and I can't blame them. Lovely place!)

Day 4

Hay-on-wye to Kington

Route: https://www.endomondo.com/routes/718196948

Hay-on-Wye was brilliant. It was so good I've had to repeat it here. Quirky and full of community spirit.

Nothing much to see today as it was really grey and drizzly. If you're thinking of walking Offa's Dyke I would recommend you get a good map for this section as a few of the field crossings might have you doubling back on yourself otherwise.

Towards kington the going is an easy gradient heading down for about 1.5 miles. You'll find yourself in Kington with various bars and B&B's so you can get a good night's sleep and a very decent meal. I stayed at The Benchmark B&B which has one twin room and one single room. It's a quirky little building full of character and the owners are super nice who also have a lot of time for the planet. I loved how dedicated they are to the organic life. A really homely home from home.

Tomorrow is the final push to Knighton and the weather is looking nasty! Fingers crossed the weather reports are wrong but I doubt it. Never mind, I'm already celebrating going from broken back to hiking 80 miles within 6 months of each event.

Day 3

Pandy to Hay-on-Wye

Route: https://www.endomondo.com/routes/718197424

The landlord at The Pandy Inn told us not to follow the Offa's Dyke trail at the start but instead he showed us a slight shortcut. I'm not one for shortcuts normally but I was dreading today and cutting the rout short by half a mile was good news in my book today. "Down the road, straight through the stone pillars into the field and head towards the house. Go down by the house on the road, at the T junction turn right and you're back on the trail". Sounded simple. It was simple but within 50 yards of walking in the field I was covered in what can only be called slurry. It goes to show that cheats never prosper!

The trail today had a really steep first few miles taking us up to around 2000 ft followed but about 10 miles of gradual climb (up to about 2800 ft). It was a cloudy day but the weather was stunning and at low level you could see for mile upon mile. It's a popular path and we stopped a few times for a chat with strangers. One couple lived a few hundred yards from where I used to live in Wimbledon. Small world!

It's an easy enough walk from Pandy to Hay-on-Wye and the views will have you snapping away for ages. None of your pictures will do it just. Majestic and beautiful.

Down to Hay-on-Wye and we realised immediately this is an interesting place. Quirky shops are in abundance and everyone is cordial and accommodating. It's a lovely place steeped in history which you should definitely visit. We got a room at The Bear B&B. The landlord was really friendly and pointed out some choice places to eat. We plumped for the nearest place as our legs we beyond weary - The Black Lion. I'm going to stick my neck out and say the food here is probably some of the best you'll ever taste. This was fine dining on a budget and the staff were fantastic. 5 stars all the way.

My hiking buddy and I have to make a decision as the next few days look like heavy rain all day. Hiking is fun but we're both suffering colds and we're not convinced getting wet and cold for hours on end is going to help. We will see what happens but no matter what we decide I definitely want to complete the Offa's Dyke trail some day.

Day 2

Monmouth to Pandy

Route: https://www.endomondo.com/routes/718197986

For long hiking days you need 2 things before you even start. Organisation (so you're out by 9am sharp), and a huge full English. Those calories will be more than used up in the next 6 or 7 hours.

The start of the hike is a good time to stock up on any supplies you may need (I can recommend biscuits so you can sit and refuel later on looking out over nice views).

It's a day of crossing fields today. You'll see loads of stunning scenery, farm animals a plenty, the odd pheasant. It's exposed so I got a good wind blasting again today.

The miles and gradients are starting to really test my physical prowess (as I've said before, running upstairs gets my heart racing so don't let my lack of physical capabilities put you off walking this). I'm more of a plodder than speed Walker and who should pass us but the Dutch couple from Chepstow! We chatted a short while and it turns out they were heading to Pandy too. I invited them to carry on as I'd only slow them down. A comment about young legs versus not so young legs was made. We laughed and I died a little inside! I picked my spirits up with the realisation they had to overtake me which means I left before them, which means, in my book, that I'm more organised than them.

My hiking buddy and I were tiring. It was lunch time. We spent a few minutes working out where the nearest eatery was and settles on it being about 30 minutes away. By now we were losing our sense of humour (hunger does that to you) so we set off to fine The Boars Head pub. We walked less than 20 yards around a corner and slap bang in front of us was.... The Boars Head! Our calculations may have been slightly off.

The Boars Head is stunning! The landlord was really nice and proud (rightly so) of his establishment. They had 26 weddings for this year already booked in with further weddings booked right up to mid 2018. He's done well and he pours a decent pint. We needed this pitstop and it delivered in spades.

Refreshed we set off again. We were near White Castle and decided to stop in for a look at the ruins. More stunning views and history than you could shake a stick at. As we wandered around the grounds who should we see but... The Dutch! We waved and smiled but headed off without chatting. We were winning! My old legs may not have speed but they've got the stamina. We didn't see them for the rest of the day. Take that!

We made it to Pandy and got ourselves sorted out with a room in the Pandy Inn. I'd called earlier to book a room. They gave us this big family room but charged single rates. I've just had a good shower and feed up, now to sample some local brews!

Day 1

Chepstow to Monmouth

Route: https://www.endomondo.com/routes/718198557

Let's make no bones about it. I'm out of shape. In my head I'm 20, fit as a flea, and can take on the world. In reality I'm 210lbs, middle aged, and get out of breath running upstairs. That being said I managed 18 miles carrying a full backpack over undulating terrain.

The markers for Offa's Dyke are clear and plentiful. You can't go far wrong on this trail. When the weather is good it's brilliant and when it's bad it can be mean as hell if you're caught out in it in the middle of a field. Being exposed to the elements here gives you ruddy cheeks at the best of times. It was gusting icy winds so I've ended up looking like I've spent too long out in the Algave sun!

There's a lot of woodland walking which is enjoyable on a dry day. I could imagine it being a bit treacherous if it were raining. There was a really cool tree that had grown through a boulder and smashed it over time (see picture). This is near The Devils pulpit. It's really impressive here and the walking is easy enough for all age groups. No good for wheelchair access on the upper stretches unfortunately.

The final part of the 18 miles takes you up the Kymin where, at the top, is a large naval memorial looking out on stunning views. I could see poor weather rolling in so I couldn't stop for long. Off I trotted to Monmouth where I found the nicest B&B called Ebberley House. The lady of the house was really inviting and showed me to the room. It's amazing how much you appreciate the simple things in life, like a shower, when you're exhausted and dirty from a day of trekking.

Food for the evening was in The Robin Hood. Basic grub, nothing fancy but I can tell you a steak and ale pie has never tasted so good. Off to bed in preparation for Day 2!

Before the "off"...

We stayed at a comfortable inn last night near the head of the trail. although comfortable I always find sleeping hard on a full stomach and my stomach was full from an Indian meal we had last night.
This morning I had the obligatory full English and, whilst eating, I overheard a couple telling the proprietor they were heading out to Offa's Dyke trail. I interjected that maybe we'd see them on the trail. "In the nicest possible way I hope not!" He said. We laughed. Inside a voice said to me "challenge accepted!"

Its sunny yet cool. Perfect stomping weather. We decided last night that we'd try for Monmouth today. This will be a yomp!

Offa's Dyke pt1

Today I head to Chepstow to start a trek along Offa's Dyke. This is the 177 mile natural border between Wales and England. I'll be starting at Chepstow and hiking (hopefully) 15-20 miles a day heading north. Fingers crossed the weather holds. I'm travelling from Kent as I type and yesterday we had temperatures touching 12 degrees C but also we had snow brought by icy winds from the north.Try packing a backpack to accommodate that! As I look out of the train window across the English countryside I see cumulus clumping in an otherwise blue sky. In the distance you can see pockets of rain from these clouds. If I escape rain over the next week I'll be amazed!

I've passed through London and reminded myself how expensive everything is there (image making an 'O' with your thumb and forefinger. That was the circumference of the bagette I bought, coupled with a coffee. Price = £8).

My hiking buddy is travelling from Berlin today hopefully. I say hopefully as there are strikes taking place across Germany today. So far the updates for her flight state 'on time' so, again, fingers crossed she is not effected.

I should arrive in Chepstow around 2pm. That's enough time for me to get settled in our B and B and maybe do a spot of geocaching!

Hopefully I'll be able to post some sun drenched photos over the next few days.