Day 1

Chepstow to Monmouth

Route: https://www.endomondo.com/routes/718198557

Let's make no bones about it. I'm out of shape. In my head I'm 20, fit as a flea, and can take on the world. In reality I'm 210lbs, middle aged, and get out of breath running upstairs. That being said I managed 18 miles carrying a full backpack over undulating terrain.

The markers for Offa's Dyke are clear and plentiful. You can't go far wrong on this trail. When the weather is good it's brilliant and when it's bad it can be mean as hell if you're caught out in it in the middle of a field. Being exposed to the elements here gives you ruddy cheeks at the best of times. It was gusting icy winds so I've ended up looking like I've spent too long out in the Algave sun!

There's a lot of woodland walking which is enjoyable on a dry day. I could imagine it being a bit treacherous if it were raining. There was a really cool tree that had grown through a boulder and smashed it over time (see picture). This is near The Devils pulpit. It's really impressive here and the walking is easy enough for all age groups. No good for wheelchair access on the upper stretches unfortunately.

The final part of the 18 miles takes you up the Kymin where, at the top, is a large naval memorial looking out on stunning views. I could see poor weather rolling in so I couldn't stop for long. Off I trotted to Monmouth where I found the nicest B&B called Ebberley House. The lady of the house was really inviting and showed me to the room. It's amazing how much you appreciate the simple things in life, like a shower, when you're exhausted and dirty from a day of trekking.

Food for the evening was in The Robin Hood. Basic grub, nothing fancy but I can tell you a steak and ale pie has never tasted so good. Off to bed in preparation for Day 2!